For most of us, a hair oil massage for the hair is a tradition passed down through generations, making it almost as routine as washing your strands. But even if you've been doing it for years, it's helpful to hit refresh on the best practices. We spoke to Dr Geetika Mittal Gupta, medical director of ISAAC Luxe, and a big hot oil treatment fan, to tell us how she does it.
Should you massage the hair oil in?
“A scalp massage helps boost blood circulation, which can lead to hair growth and also help you relax. However, a vigorous champi can break a lot of hair during and after the oil massage. Be gentle, and use the tips of your fingers to massage oil on the roots and scalp," says Dr Gupta. A scalp massage, particularly in a circular motion, is great for improving circulation. Placing hands in an L-shape and applying pressure is best. However, making sure not to tangle hair in the process is just as important, as it can cause breakage, and can even pull hairs from their follicle.
Should you apply oil on wet or dry hair?
“You can oil when your hair is damp or dry, but your hair and scalp have to be clean, or the oil won't have a chance to be absorbed,” says Dr Gupta. For heavier oils like coconut oil, applying it on dry hair is best, as the larger molecules may not penetrate the shaft of wet hair as well it can dry hair. Another way to improve penetration? Use warm oil, as the liquefied formula can sink in better. “Heat in the form of a hot towel or warm hair oil equals increased chances of absorption. You can warm up some oil in a bowl and apply it—it's a tradition in India—or use a hot towel on your hair after application,” she confirms.
How much oil should you be using?
The amount of oil you need depends on the oil you are using, the purpose (a few drops as a serum or more as a mask) and the length of your hair. Apply a few pumps or one to three palmfuls of oil onto your scalp gently and use one-two pumps on your strands depending on density and hair texture, says Dr Gupta. Start at the scalp, and then “gently use your hands to apply oil to your mid-lengths and ends to give them much-needed moisture, especially if you colour or chemically treat your hair," she says.
How long should you leave it on for?
While some leave oil in their hair overnight, but usually one-two hours should suffice. “If you apply more oil than you need, thinking you need to coat every strand of your hair with oil, you will need the same amount of shampoo to get it off. This may lead to dryness, which is counterproductive. A little goes a long way,” advises the expert. She adds that a lot of women in India oil their hair daily and then plait or braid their hair, but she recommends sticking to once or twice a week.
Not everyone should oil their hair though. “Those with dandruff, seborrheic dermatitis and psoriasis should stay away from oiling as it may increase flaking, causing dandruff to stick to the scalp. In other cases, it can also lead to red patches, itching, inflammation and more," she says.
What's the best way to apply hair oil?
- Before you start, scoop out oil if solid, and microwave/heat gently until melted and warmed through.
- Then, section off pieces of hair and massage the oil from the root to tip, combing after with a wide-tooth comb to ensure even distribution (and to prevent tangles). Massage with your fingertips.
- Repeat until everything is coated, and then twist hair into a topknot. Trichologists suggest against tying hair too tight, as massaging can loosen the hair from the roots, making them more susceptible to breakage when they're weighed down.
- Standing in a warm shower can help, as the steam can improve absorption. Try soaking a towel in hot water, and then covering your head with it.
- When you suds up after, removing all trace of the oil is important, so you may have to lather up twice or thrice to be sure.
Also read:
10 budget-friendly hair oils that will work for every hair type and issue
Is your hair oil helping you target your specific hair concern?
Does your haircare routine need a toner and a scrub? This is what a dermat says
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